Friday, November 14, 2025

So Goes Our Kosher Delis of New York With Jewish Rye

 Nadene Goldfoot                   


Watch out New York, you might find your Jewish Delis being attacked by not serving Jewish rye as part of their Pastrami sandwiches!  That has already happened to me eating a rye and Pastrami sandwich with that swirly-looking dark bread name unknown.  It wasn't half as good, either. Mustard and pickles go with a pastrami sandwich on Jewish rye.  

                                               

   Kosher Deli from 1950's in south Williamsburg, New York, one of many

Rye bread is considered "Jewish" because it was a staple in Eastern European Jewish communities, and immigrant bakers brought the tradition to the United States. Rye bread originated in Eastern Europe, where rye grain thrived in cold, harsh climates that were less suitable for wheat.  

It became a hallmark of Jewish American deli culture, known for specific characteristics like the use of caraway seeds and an egg wash, though its actual rye content often decreased over time in the U.S.   For Ashkenazi Jews, rye bread became a dietary essential—nutritious, affordable, and perfect for Shabbat meals or weekday sustenance. Immigrants brought their love of rye to the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and it quickly became a hallmark of Jewish American food culture.   This hearty, slightly tangy staple has been a cornerstone of Jewish delis, the perfect partner to corned beef, pastrami, or lox, and a timeless favorite for generations. But where did it come from?

      


Out here in Oregon, we have labeled, "Jewish rye" bread, knowingly a littledifferent from other ryes.  Notice in the picture above that it is a lighterrye.  So, the easy answer is that a rye bread is “Jewish” if one could routinely find it on the shelves of the bakeries that anchored Jewish neighborhoods in New York Boston, Chicago, Miami, Los Angeles and everywhere else eastern European Jews settled. Usually, that bread was some variation on the light, caraway-seeded ryes or the dark, artificially-colored pumpernickels that most people think of as “Jewish.” 

                                      

This is a corned beef on rye at Judah's  in Portland, and if it hasn't
moved yet is at:  Judah's Delicatessen is located at 5235 NE Sandy Blvd. in Portland, OR 97213. It is a food cart in the Rose City Food Park, a deli in the Rose City Park neighborhood of Northeast Portland. (Our old Jewish neighborhood was in the SW side)  Same thing that
happened to New York has happened to Portland in Jewish neighborhoods.  

  The number of traditional kosher delis in New York has significantly declined due to a combination of economic and demographic factors, such as rising rents, high meat costs, and a suburban migration of Jewish populations. While many classic delis have closed, some are adapting by offering modern takes on Jewish food, while others, like Liebman's Deli, continue to operate as traditional establishments. 

Jews are worried about New York's new mayor.  Mamdani's campaign was animated by an array of local economic issues. But in Israel, his pro-Palestinian platform is all that matters.  Jerusalem:

The election of Zohran Mamdani as New York City's next mayor has sent a chill across Israel as people come to terms with the victory of a politician propelled by an outspoken pro-Palestinian message that is rare in US politics.  Israelis across the political spectrum fear that Mamdani's election -- in the city with the world's second-largest Jewish population — could foreshadow icier relations with the US, Israel's most important ally.  Support for Mamdani from almost one-third of Jewish voters only added to the pain.  “Very bad,” said Hana Jaeger, a Jerusalem resident, assessing the news the day after the election. “For the Jews, for Israel, for everyone, it's very bad. What else can you say?”

Jews had been slowly moving out of New York and others moved in that weren't Jewish.  Now those that are left are not able to keep the kosher delis open.  "The number of traditional kosher delis in New York has significantly declined due to a combination of economic and demographic factors, such as rising rents, high meat costs, and a suburban migration of Jewish populations. While many classic delis have closed, some are adapting by offering modern takes on Jewish food, while others, like Liebman's Deli, continue to operate as traditional establishments." 

  • "Demographic changes: After World War II, many Jewish New Yorkers moved to the suburbs, leading to a decline in the dense Jewish neighborhoods that supported many delis."

Research:

Wikipedia

https://www.myjewishlearning.com/the-nosher/what-makes-rye-bread-jewish/#:~:text=The%20easy%20answer%20is%20that,think%20of%20as%20%E2%80%9CJewish.%E2%80%9D

https://www.google.com/search?q=what%27s+happened+to+kosher+delis+in+New+York%3F&sca_esv=3305bec65bd7fec6&sxsrf=AE3TifOn5dwQJeHMr_1lcaljRQeK4brCew%3A1763128241355&source=hp&ei=sTMXabKxE_-V0PEPtJfruQQ&iflsig

https://www.ndtv.com/world-news/zohran-mamdani-very-bad-for-jews-israelis-react-to-mamdani-being-next-new-york-mayor-9597630

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